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05/27/2012

Restaurant review: The Capital Grille is a solid score for downtown Fort Worth

Capital-grille-fort-worth2FORT WORTH - The first reaction to the addition of a Capital Grille in downtown Fort Worth is not food but location. It is directly across the street from Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, and what feels about five feet away on the same block from Del Frisco's.

This a cow triangle of terror.

The Capital Grille is a large, old steakhouse chain that just now has come to Fort Worth.

If you have never been to a Capital Grille elsewhere, know that it's not cheap, but takes its high standards very seriously and this is fine dining experience worthy of a special occasion.

This is a solid addition to the downtown Fort Worth restaurant market.

IMG_0834From the appetizer menu the prosciutto wrapped mozarella with vine ripe tomatoes (pictured) is a solid way to start. It nearly tastes like bacon wrapped tightly around a solid piece of cheese that falls apart in your mouth. The lobster and crab cakes is also a solid score. The way this appetizer menu is set up you could easily order from this and pick and choose for dinner.

From the dinner menu the 24-ounce dry aged porterhouse requires a bit of patience. Capital Grille does not trick up its steaks with a heavy rub; it just uses Lawry's seasoning. The first few bites of this porterhouse, prepared medium rare, were a bit on the dry side. About three bites towards the bone, however, you get a full appreciation for this piece of beef. 

The sushi-grade sesame seared tuna with gingered rice was oustanding. It does taste like sushi, and stayed well inside the raw line. The texture was like sushi, yet it tasted like a tuna steak.

IMG_0836From the sides menu an absolute must is the lobster mac 'n' cheese. Ths is a Capital Grille staple, and could easily pass for dinner, lunch, breakfast, a snack, etc. The lobster pieces are a perfect blend to the comfort-rich cheese cuisine.

The star of the dessert menu is the cheesecake with fresh seasonal berries. Unlike cheesecakes that are blockish and too heavy, this is a light, almost fluffy, dessert. 

The wine menu here is extensive, and a wait staff that makes you feel like royalty are good for solid suggestions to compliment whatever it is you order.

The Capital Grille menu runs on the large side for a fine dining experience; normally high-end restaurants have a limited selection in a perceived effort to perfect what they do offer. It does not taste as if anything suffers here, and that this established chain has found the right combination of offering a lot without sacrificing quality.

Make no mistake - you are going to spend your money here. Capital Grille does not advertise itself as an inexpensive night out, yet fine dining. It is that, and is a solid addition to Fort Worth.

 

@MacEngelProf
tengel@star-telegram.com
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